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In March, we know that spring is just around the corner. But we also know that March storms can produce ice instead of (or in addition to) snow. And that ice can be a dangerous force. The added weight of ice on poles can quickly lead to broken power poles and other pole equipment. Ice can also make falling tree branches 30 times heavier and much more likely to break power lines. For example, on a 300-foot span of 1-inch-thick power lines: 1/2 inch of ice adds 281 pounds of weight 1 inch of ice adds 749 pounds of weight 2 inches of ice adds 2,248 pounds of weight In addition, melting ice can cause power outages. If ice on the bottom (neutral) line melts before the lines above, it can cause the lines to touch, leading to an outage. Other ice facts Damage can begin when ice exceeds 1/4 of an inch 1/2 inch of ice can cause a line to sag up to 12 inches Pressure can also be caused by a broken tree limb Both ice and melting ice can cause power outages Ice can form around power lines in a teardrop shape. This shape acts as a wing, causing the line to gain lift and rise with high winds. The ice can also break off, causing unsafe conditions on the ground. Source: Safeelectricity.org

In February, we published a list of routine home maintenance tasks to perform to keep your systems operating at peak performance. One task we did not include on the list, but promised to revisit, is hot water heater maintenance. Flushing the water heater tank removes mineral sediment that accumulates in the bottom of the tank. If it’s not completed frequently enough, the mineral buildup may cause banging or rumbling noises as water moves through the tank. If you wait too long to flush the tank, the sediment will make it harder to complete the task later. Even worse: Your tank (if it’s a steel tank) may rust out prematurely. If you have a newer water heater model: Some home maintenance lists recommend flushing the tank annually, while others, such as the RHEEM Marathon Use and Care Manual, recommend that a few quarts or liters of water be drained from the bottom of the tank every month to remove mineral deposits. The deposits that settle in the basin (the bottom of the water heater) come from mineral solids that are suspended in water. If you start immediately after installation, you should have no problems with the accumulation of the mineral deposits, and you’ll keep your tank in good condition and working well. If your water heater hasn’t been flushed for years: Some plumbers advise against flushing at all by this point because the flushing action could activate leaks. The theory is this: Tiny fissures in the base of the water heater may have filled with sediment that helps prevent leaks, particularly in a gas water heater as the flame has been baking the steel bottom. Flushing out the sediment could remove some of the protection against leaking (in other words, the sediment that has been preventing holes from forming). If your water heater hasn’t been flushed for years, it would pay to ask one or more plumbers in your area for an opinion on how to proceed. An additional task for steel water heater tanks: Most steel water heater tanks have a thin glass lining to protect the metal from corrosion. Since the lining eventually cracks, tanks have a second line of defense against rust: a long metal “anode rod” that attracts corrosive elements from the water. When the rod becomes so corroded that it can no longer do its job, the tank soon rusts out, leaks and needs to be replaced. However, replacing the water heater anode rod before it fails, about every five years can double the life of the heater. Because the rod can be difficult to break loose and must be installed with liquid Teflon pipe thread sealant (not tape), consider hiring a qualified plumber. Investigate the low maintenance option for your next water heater: Contact your cooperative to learn more about the advantages of the low-maintenance, Marathon electric water heater – the last water heater you’ll ever need to buy! The Marathon features a seamless, blow-molded polybutene inner tank that will not rust or corrode, and the heater’s innovative construction methods deliver a long life, high efficiency and good looks, too! It’s warranted1 not to leak as long as you own your home and does not require an anode rod. If you enroll in our load management program, we offer incentives to make this premium water heater very affordable. A lifetime warranty is provided to original customer in a residential application after online product registration is complete. Registration must be completed within 90 days of installation. For more details: RHEEM Marathon Use and Care Manual Home Tips: How to Flush or Drain a Water Heater (includes illustrations and a video on Maintaining a Water Heater) Family Handyman: Extend the Life of Your Water Heater by Replacing the Anode Rod Contact your electric cooperative for more details on purchasing and installing a RHEEM Marathon water heater.

Most of the time, when we think of the word envelope, we think of the outer covering that our mail comes in. Or, to irritate our kids or coworker, we might push the envelope. However, your home’s envelope consists of its outer walls, windows, doors and other openings. A well-sealed envelope, coupled with the right amount of insulation, can reduce your energy use — and, in turn, your utility bills. According to EnergyStar.gov, a whopping 9 out of 10 homes in the U.S. are under-insulated. Homeowners can save an average of 15% on heating and cooling costs (or an average of 11% on total energy costs) by air sealing their homes and adding insulation in attics, floors, over crawl spaces and basements. To determine if your home’s envelope is in good shape, conduct a home audit to pinpoint the leaks that allow energy to escape your home — air-conditioned air in the summer and heated air in the winter. A qualified energy auditor will include an insulation check as part of a whole-house energy assessment and will identify areas of your home that need air sealing or insulation repairs. As your electric cooperative, we offer members energy audits to assist you in determining where your home may need additional “envelope TLC.” And as a bonus, don’t forget to check our rebate program when you determine what steps you need to take to tighten up your home’s envelope. DIY home energy audit If you prefer to complete your own energy audit rather than calling on a professional, you’ll need to know: The type of insulation in your home. The R-value (rate of thermal resistance) of your insulation. Typically, the higher the R-value, the more effective it is at insulating. Depending on where you live, you do not necessarily need the highest value; it depends on your local climate. The thickness or depth (inches) of the insulation you have. In a newer home, the builder can help identify the type of insulation used and where it is located. In an older home, you will need to perform the inspection yourself. Energy.gov offers detailed advice on where to insulate, insulation in new homes, adding insulation to existing homes, types of insulation and materials, moisture control and air sealing. Find details here. One note: You may read about radiant barriers as a way to save energy. Our experts caution that radiant barriers do not provide any real energy savings in Iowa, as our climate is a “heating dominant” region. Safe Electricity offers a quick overview on how to complete a DIY energy assessment by checking: In the attic A general rule of thumb when inspecting the attic insulation is that if the insulation is level with or below the attic floor joists, you probably need to add more insulation. If you cannot see any of the floor joists because the insulation is well above them, you probably have enough, and adding more insulation may not be cost-effective. Insulation should be evenly distributed with no low spots; be sure to check throughout the attic to determine if there are any thin spots. Make sure the insulation in your attic has the appropriate R-value for where you live. Check the value printed on your existing insulation. If you cannot find the value, measure the depth of the insulation in inches. Multiply the depth by the following insulation type: 3.2 for fiberglass batting, for the loose fibers category, multiply by 2.5 for loose fiberglass, 2.8 for rock wool and 3.7 for cellulose. Then check EnergyStar.gov’s recommended R-values. If your calculated value is less than the recommended levels for your region, then you should consider adding more insulation to your attic. Behind the walls Turn off the power to the outlet before beginning this check. Then use a voltmeter or voltage tester to confirm that there is no power at the socket before beginning work. Remove the outlet cover and shine a flashlight into the crack around the outlet box. You should be able to see if there is insulation in the wall and possibly how thick it is. Pull out a small amount of insulation if needed to help determine the type of insulation. Check outlets on all floors, as well as old and new parts of your home. Just because you find insulation in one wall does not mean that it is uniform throughout your home. How to conduct a DIY air leak audit This simplified set of instructions is also from Safe Electricity. Before you repair or install more insulation, you need to identify and repair any potential air leaks in your home’s envelope. Potential problem areas include doors, windows, sill plates (the bottom piece of wall structure where wall studs are attached), top plates (supportive beams in the ceiling), crawl spaces, outdoor faucets, dryer vents, stove vent fans, roof eaves and overhangs, plumbing vent stacks, recessed lighting, attic hatches and air duct registers. One way to have your home checked is by a qualified energy auditor. Or, if you want to address your own home, there are a couple of ways to do this: By yourself Perform a visual inspection on your own in daylight. All potential problem areas should be free from gaps and cracks. While lights are on in the home, also observe from the attic, crawlspace or basement. Anywhere you can see light from the interior of the house shining through gaps and cracks is another air leak location in need of repair. With a partner To conduct a more thorough inspection, work with a partner at night to shine a flashlight over all potential gaps while one of you observes the house from the outside. Anywhere you can see light shine through is an air leak that needs to be sealed properly.

Some ideas are so widely held, they appear to bear little scrutiny or even a second thought. Although often factual, such common wisdom may be based on outdated or false information. Widespread misconceptions about energy use can increase utility bills and reduce comfort. Here are 5 myths that may surprise you: 1. Setting the thermostat higher or lower will heat or cool a room faster. Most furnaces and air conditioners work at the same speed, no matter what the thermostat setting. Unless you have a variable speed blower, more energy may be wasted as the system continues to run to reach the higher or lower set point. 2. Leaving lights on uses less energy than turning them on and off. In most cases, the small surge of power needed to turn a light on is much less than the power that is wasted by leaving it on when it's not needed. 3. Closing off vents will reduce heating and cooling costs. Closing vents is not a good way to save on energy costs. Heating and cooling systems are designed to distribute air evenly; closing vents throws the system off balance. This causes pressure to build up, resulting in duct leaks that waste energy. 4. Leaving a ceiling fan on will cool a room. Ceiling fans circulate air, making your skin feel cooler. This allows you to save energy by raising the thermostat. However, they don't cool the air. Leaving them on in empty rooms wastes energy. 5. Hand washing dishes is cheaper than using a dishwasher. It's widely believed that dishwashers are convenient but use more water and energy than hand washing. In fact, washing a typical load of dishes in a dishwasher uses 37% less water. Also, using an ENERGY STAR®-certified dishwasher, rather than hand washing, can cut your annual energy costs by more than $40, according to ENERGY STAR. Separating myth from reality about home energy use can save you money and increase comfort. See Energy Savings at Home from ENERGY STAR for more cost-saving ideas.

If you cringe every time you have to swap out 4, 6 or 8 disposable batteries in a toy or flashlight, you may have already decided to switch to rechargeables to avoid the hassle of searching through cabinets for new disposables. If you are still considering what to do, read on for the pros and cons of rechargeable batteries. Pros for choosing rechargeables You probably are already using rechargeable batteries in electronics such as smartphones and tablets so you are familiar with how they work. Rechargeable batteries almost always last longer, cost less in the long term and reduce waste compared with single-use batteries and when used in high-demand devices. That’s because many of them continue to work until being charged up to 500 times (2 to 5 years), offering hundreds of hours more use than disposables. Rechargeables perform better and hold a charge longer than in years past (you have probably already noticed this as you have upgraded your phone/tablet through the past few years). Rechargeable batteries for other products have improved, too. They also often last longer on a charge than single-use batteries. They perform better, providing peak performance when used. Rechargeables are rated at 1.2 volts while in use vs. disposables that begin at 1.5 volts, so it may seem as if disposables are more powerful. However, many rechargeables stay near their rated voltage (even at a high current draw) until they are drained. Only for a few low-drain applications can a disposable alkaline battery truly supply higher voltage, and then only when the battery is fairly fresh. The voltage of disposables steadily drops until drained. When current draw is high, the voltage of disposables can drop very quickly. Because they are available in common sizes (AAA, AA, C, D, 9v) you can purchase them for most common uses. By using rechargeable batteries, you are keeping toxic materials out of the landfill. Disposable batteries contain manganese, nickel and steel and add volume to landfills. Cons of going with rechargeables You’ll need a charging unit to keep the batteries charged; if one doesn’t come with your battery pack, you’ll need to purchase one separately. Notes: Use only a charger specified for the type and size of your batteries, don’t leave batteries in the charger for more than 24 hours at a time and don't mix rechargeable battery types in the same charger. If re-charged batteries aren’t used frequently, they may lose their charge while sitting on a shelf for a few months. This makes it important that they stay charged and used. More expensive, low self-discharging rechargeable batteries are available that can last for up to a year in storage. Disposable batteries are best for emergency-preparedness kits because they can last up to a decade on the shelf without draining. Because disposables self-discharge, they aren't always ideal for using with low-draw items such as clocks, TV remotes, portable lights and smoke alarms as they may wear out more quickly. Instead, they work best in items with a higher discharge (toys, remotes and video game controllers). Some devices require the slightly higher initial voltage of an alkaline battery (1.5 volts vs. the 1.2 volts from most rechargeables) to work reliably. For life-saving devices such as smoke alarms, always use the type of battery recommended in the device's manual. They are somewhat more complex to understand than disposables. For example, you'll need to research and understand the various types before selecting the best option for your needs (nickel-metal hydride (NiMH), Nickel-zinc (NiZn), Lithium ion (Li-ion) and Nickel-cadmium (niCd)). Even though they are considered to be more environmentally friendly than disposables, they do have some toxic substances. Rather than trashing them, they must be recycled (some stores or battery companies offer a way to dispose of them). If the power is out, you won’t be able to recharge them.

After the recent deadly devastation caused by a massive tornado in several parts of Iowa, it's wise to review your tornado preparedness plan. From viewing funnel videos on the TV news and online, most of us recognize the types of cloud formations where tornadoes are most likely to form and the freight-train roar that accompanies them. Other clues to a possible tornado formation include a wall cloud, large hail and a dark, greenish sky. If you are worried about the weather, you will likely switch on your TV news reports or local radio stations to find details and listen for tornado sirens. Editorial note: Turning on a battery-powered weather radio is another option, especially if there are no sirens in your immediate area. Be sure to keep yours charged and ready to grab if the weather warrants it. Other pre-storm checks include having a first-aid kit and fire extinguishers at the ready and ensuring all family members know how to access the safest location in your home. Find the safest location If you are in a building structure such as a home, school, office, hospital, or other public building Head to the basement or storm cellar if available; otherwise, go to the lowest level into a windowless interior room or hallway. Stay away from glass windows and doors. Crouch down to make the smallest “target” possible. If available, get under a sturdy piece of furniture such as a bench, heavy table or desk. Use your arms to protect your head and neck and cover up with pillows or blankets to protect yourself from flying glass or other debris. If you are in a vehicle, trailer, or mobile home or are out in the open These areas are all very dangerous during a tornado. Protect yourself as much as you are able. Don’t try to outrun the tornado. If you can, immediately head to the lowest floor of a sturdy nearby building or a storm shelter. Stay away from trees and power lines and watch for lightning if you are outdoors. Lie flat in a nearby ditch or depression and cover your head with your hands; remain vigilant about the possibility of flooding. Do not get under an overpass or bridge. Watch for flying debris, as most tornado-related injuries and fatalities are caused by debris. After a tornado Continue monitoring the storm with a battery-powered radio or TV for emergency information. Be wary of entering any structure that has been damaged. Stay out of any building if you smell gas. Wear sturdy shoes or boots, long sleeves, and gloves when handling or walking on or near debris. Look out for exposed nails and broken glass. Stay away from downed power lines or objects in contact with downed lines. Report electrical hazards. Use battery-powered lanterns rather than candles to light homes without electrical power. Never use generators or charcoal-burning devices inside your home, garage, basement, or camper—or even outside near an open window, door, or vent. A buildup of carbon monoxide can be deadly. Cooperate fully with public safety officials and volunteer to help others in your community if you can. Prepare for the next storm well in advance Especially if you live in a home, trailer, or apartment community without a basement, there are ways to increase your family’s safety: Build a safe room, either an individual room for your family or a community safe room for your apartment or condo association. There are many approved types; start your research with FEMA. Find out more about NOAA weather radios Some details from Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI)

After your home has been closed up through the winter, it’s time to fling open the windows, sweep out the dust bunnies and haul away accumulated debris. In addition to sweeping, swiping and swishing out the grime, spring is an excellent time to clean up your act to ensure energy efficiency. For example: Clean the coils on your fridge so it will run more efficiently. At the same time, check your seal by closing a dollar bill in the door. If you can pull it out easily, your seal may need to be replaced. Dust lightbulbs. Dirty bulbs don’t shine as brightly. If some of your bulbs are old incandescents or CFLs, replace them with LEDs rather than clean the old ones. Schedule air conditioner maintenance so your unit will work at its peak during the heat of the summer. The basics are covered in this ENERGY STAR list, and don’t forget that you should replace the filters about once a month for the most efficient operation of your unit. Tip: Date the filter when you change it so you know when it's time to replace it again. Wash the windows, inside and out, to allow more daylight to shine in. That way, you can rely more on natural light and less on lamps. When attending to your windows, consider how windows and the coverings you choose can help save energy year-round. Opening windows on nice days can provide ventilation, while sun-blocking drapes or blinds can prevent the sun from overheating your home on hot summer days, while opening the drapes/blinds on winter days can allow the sun to provide warmth when needed. Clean the air return vents and make sure that drapes and furniture are not blocking the vents. After scrubbing your tub and shower, install a low-flow showerhead in each to cut water flow and the amount of hot water heating necessary. Adjusting the thermostat to a lower set temperature can save energy, too. After dusting ceiling fan blades, change the direction on them for the summer, allowing warm air to be pulled upward. This provides a bit of cooling and may allow you to keep the air conditioner turned off. Just remember to turn off the fan when you leave a room as the cooling provided only helps when you are in the room. Clean or replace the filters in bathroom and kitchen fans, and other filters, too. Consider installing a timer on the bathroom fan so it doesn’t run longer than necessary. And don’t forget to check filters on whole-house air filters, in-fridge water dispensers and your vacuum system, too. Brush dirt and grime out of the tracks for your sliding glass door. A dirty track can ruin the seal, creating gaps for air infiltration. When clearing out clutter, clothing and no-longer-used items, donate whenever possible and recycle anything else you can.

Whether your oven and stovetop are powered by gas or electricity, it’s no secret that they consume more energy than smaller countertop appliances, like slow cookers and toaster ovens. In addition to efficiency, smaller kitchen appliances can provide faster cooking times and less hassle with cleanup. If you’re looking for convenient cooking methods with the added bonus of energy efficiency, here are three electrifying appliances for your kitchen: Air fryers are becoming increasingly popular, and consumers have a lot of good things to say about these handy little appliances. Air fryers use convection to circulate hot air and cook the food––this means little to no oil is required, resulting in healthier meals than those from traditional fryers. Air fryers are fairly small, so they won’t take up much of your counter space, and with everything cooked in the fryer, cleanup will be a breeze. Air fryers are available in a variety of sizes, and prices range from $40 to $200+. Electric griddles have certainly been around for a while, and they offer several benefits for any home chef (beyond bacon and eggs!). Griddles are convenient because you can cook everything at once––like a “one-pan” meal, and the possibilities are endless. From fajitas to sandwiches to French toast, griddles can help satisfy any taste buds. They consume small amounts of energy and provide quick cooking times, so your energy bill will thank you. Prices and sizes for griddles vary, but you can typically find one for about $30 at your local retail stores. Pizza brings people together, so why not consider a pizza maker for your kitchen? These compact, countertop machines are an inexpensive alternative to a costly brick oven, and they use less energy than your traditional oven. Choose your own fresh ingredients to whip up a faster, healthier pizza at home. Plus, most pizza makers are multifunctional and can be used to cook flatbreads, frittatas, quesadillas and more. You can purchase a pizza maker for about $30 to $150+ online or at your local retailer. These are just a few electrifying appliance options for your kitchen. Remember, when you’re cooking a smaller meal, these and other countertop appliances can save time and energy.

Portable pools Kids love water, so setting up a small backyard pool is a favorite summertime activity. The Consumer Product Safety Commission offers these tips to keep your children safe around water: Empty and put away smaller portable pools after every use. Once the pool is set up, keep close so you provide constant supervision. A tragedy can happen in just moments. Fence portable pools and encourage your neighbors with pools to do the same. Cover larger portable pools and put access ladders away when adults are not present (make sure they are fenced in, also). Install alarms on doors leading from the house to the pool area to alert you when someone enters the pool area. Teach children to swim, float and other basic life-saving skills; however, do not consider them “drown-proof” because they have had swimming lessons. Make sure your neighbors, babysitters and visitors know about the pool’s presence in your yard. Learn and practice CPR so you can help in an emergency. Source: Consumer Product Safety Commission Pool electrical safety Whether your pool is a tiny portable blow-up, a hot tub or a full-size inground pool, electricity and water don’t mix. These tips from Safe Electricity will help you keep the two separated for safety: Keep anything that is plugged in at least 5 feet from the pool. The farther, the better. Have a licensed contractor inspect the pool or hot tub wiring to ensure it meets code requirements. Know where electrical switches and circuit breakers are and how to operate them. Keep pool skimmers and other far-reaching tools more than 10 feet away from overhead power lines. Make sure all outdoor outlets are GFCI protected. Test them once a month. Do not touch electrical devices when you are wet or in contact with wet surfaces. Note that this includes cell phones when they are plugged into a charger. Source: SafeElectricity.org

Our smart phones are an essential technology in our lives, accompanying most of us wherever we go. As such, it’s critical that we care for them to keep them clean, safe, able to hold a charge and up to speed. First and foremost: Back up your phone to the cloud so that if anything goes wrong, you still have access to your data. Knowing your phone is backed up will ensure peace of mind if you find your phone is lost, stolen, or incapacitated. In the meantime: Keep it clean A study in the journal Germs notes that up to 17,000 germs were recorded on the outside of phones. Another study by the University of Arizona claims that phones can carry more germs than a toilet seat. Besides the “ewww” factor, some of those germs may be dangerous. There are ways to safely wipe down a dirty phone but the technique varies by phone brand, so be sure to check with your manufacturer before swiping yours. Keep your hands clean so you don’t transfer dirt, grime and germs to your phone. In the same vein, don’t set your phone down on dirty countertops or other potentially contaminated surfaces. Never carry your phone into the restroom because of course there is a huge potential for germ pickup there, too. Wipe your phone down daily. In most cases, using a microfiber cloth is not damaging, and because microfiber can eliminate bacteria, that may be enough cleaning. If you are able to use a cleaning spray (such as 70% isopropyl alcohol or a fast-drying disinfecting wipe) safely, occasionally spray it on the cloth and clean your phone rather than spray directly on the phone. Avoid getting any moisture in the charging ports. If you have a hard case on your phone, periodically remove it and wash with mild dish soap and warm water. Rinse and air-dry completely before replacing it on your phone. Refresh and purge If you have experienced a short battery life, slow uploads and downloads, or frequent crashing, it’s probably time to clean up your phone’s performance. Delete that mountain of photos from your phone; uploading them into the cloud frees up lots of storage space. From now on, have the photos automatically back up to the cloud so you can delete photos from your phone safely as soon as you are done sharing recent pics of your cute kids or grandkids with all your friends. Delete old text messages and change settings to auto-delete after a certain time frame. Memes, videos, gifs and similar icons take up space, so delete those as soon as you read them; look for any you still have and delete them now. Go through your contacts list and delete those you are unlikely to get in touch with again. Check out all of the apps on your phone. First delete the ones you aren’t currently using; you can always add them back if you need them later. Then, organize the remaining apps into folders so you can find them easier. Next, figure out which apps are tracking you and deny permission for them to keep tabs on your position. These geo-location services that run in the background slow down your phone. (On an Android, turn off geo-location in Settings>Apps, then tap on the app, then Permissions. On an iPhone, it’s in Settings>Privacy>Location, then choose the app.) The exceptions to location services are ride-share and similar services that must know where you are. If you don’t use them often, turn them off when you aren’t using them. Download updates for greater security and to get bug fixes, along with new features. Change your password to protect your phone from cyberattacks. If you have severe slowdowns and battery depletion, you may want to take the drastic action of clearing your history and cookies. It may make opening apps slower for a while after this action, but it will clear out a lot of “junk” from your phone.

Our co-op staff are frequently asked about options when members are contemplating the replacement of a furnace and air conditioning unit. A common question is, “Would a heat pump help us save money?” This question is an excellent one since, for most of us, heating and cooling accounts for the largest chunk of our household energy use. An electric air-source heat pump can be a good alternative to a furnace system that runs on propane or fuel oil. A heat pump is also a cost-effective alternative to electric resistance heat that is used in electric furnaces and in baseboard and wall units. How heat pumps work In the summer, an air-source heat pump acts as an air conditioner (AC) that draws heat from your home’s air and transfers it outside. In the winter, the system’s direction is reversed so that heat is pulled from the outside air and moved into your home. The heat pump has two major components: the condenser (also called the compressor) that circulates refrigerant through the system and an air handler that distributes the conditioned air. Most heat pumps are split systems, with the condenser located outside and the air handler inside. A packaged system contains both components in one unit that is placed outside your home. Heat pumps usually distribute the hot or cold air through the duct system. In the past, heat pumps weren’t efficient enough to work in colder climates. In recent years, however, technology has advanced to make them viable in climates with long periods of sub-freezing temperature, such as the Northeast U.S. If your old furnace has an AC attached, replacing both the heating and cooling system with the all-in-one solution of a heat pump might produce significant cost savings. If you are currently cooling with window units, or have an older central AC, moving to an air-source heat pump could reduce your summer energy bills. Heat pumps not only reduce energy costs, they can also eliminate the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning and problems that can occur with on-site storage of propane or heating oil. Selecting and installing Heat pumps must work harder to extract heat as the outside temperature drops. At some point "regular" air-source heat pumps switch to resistance mode, which operates the same way a toaster or an electric baseboard heater works. If your area has very cold winters, as Iowa does, homeowners needed to consider a dual fuel system, which utilizes a heat pump along with a gas or propane furnace. However, there is a newer, better option available to those of us who live in cold climates: a cold climate air-source heat pump (ccASHP). This new generation of ASHPs offers increased efficiency and operating capacity at lower outside temperatures than the “original” air-source heat pumps. The Northeast Energy Efficiency Partnerships (NEEP) is an authority on ccASHPs and has consumer guides and case studies on their website. Also find the Air Source Heat Pump Buying Guide on the website. It’s recommended that in cold climates, consumers should look for air-source heat pump units that have a high capacity maintenance percentage (meaning that the heat output capability is not reduced as much at low temperatures (5℉) compared to warmer temperatures [47℉ and 17℉]). Also recommended: seek a higher HSPF rating, which measures heating efficiency. On the other hand, those who live in a warm climate and use more air conditioning than heating, will likely want to focus their heat pump search more on the SEER rating, which measures cooling efficiency. The minimum standard heat pump is SEER 14 and HSPF 8.2. An easy way to compare options is to look for the ENERGY STAR® label. This indicates the unit is at least 15 SEER and 8.5 HSPF. How much can a heat pump reduce your energy costs? This depends upon the size and efficiency of your home, local energy prices and local climate. You can find calculators online that can help you predict energy savings. One entry with sample data found that the cost of heating in South Carolina, using a new heat pump and national average fuel costs, was less than half the cost of heating with a typical propane furnace or an electric resistance system. According to a study conducted in Dane County, Wisconsin, single family homes with propane heat and existing air conditioning saved 22% on their heating/cooling utility bill. Single family homes with electric heat and existing air conditioning saved 50%. Dane County and the northern half of Iowa are in the same (“cold, moist” Zone 6) climate zone. In the article describing the findings, find the pertinent details in Table 5, page 16. Find assistance to make the switch Professional energy auditors can predict energy savings with greater precision than a sales person, and they can offer advice on choosing a specific brand and size of the unit. More importantly, energy auditors can suggest other ways to improve comfort or reduce energy use such as duct sealing or insulating the building envelope. Your local HVAC dealers, if they have heat pump experience, can be very helpful. Many heat pumps are not installed correctly, so be sure to ask how they will ensure a quality installation. And of course, be sure to contact us to find out more about reputable dealers, rebates and rates for electric heat. For more information: Energy Saver air-source heat pumps general details Energy Star key product criteria for air-source heat pumps Energy Star heat pump savings calculator

When you rent, borrow or use equipment that will either elevate you or break ground, be sure to use it safely. Whether you are a novice do-it-yourselfer eager to embark on a lofty project or you have used several types of outdoor equipment or machinery before, be sure to always read and follow the safety guidelines and operating instructions provided by the manufacturer. In addition, keep these 10 safety tips in mind: Before using equipment, obtain proper training; in some cases, certification is required. Prior to each use, follow the manufacturer’s checklist to verify it is in good working order. Always evaluate and assess your location before using a scissor lift, a bucket truck, a boom lift or scaffolding (or anything that elevates you). Look up and look out for power line locations, and do not use equipment underneath or near a power line or utility pole. Keep in mind your equipment’s reach (height and width) when fully extended, and make sure it will not get too close to a power line. Always follow the 10-foot rule: Keep 10 feet between yourself or an object you are holding and a power line or pole at all times. If you rent a backhoe, a post hole digger or other digging equipment, be sure to call 8-1-1 two to three days prior to starting your project. The locating service is free and marks all public underground lines. You are responsible for having all private underground lines and pipes marked, such as those that service a garage or outbuilding, sprinkler system, invisible fence or private water system. If you or a previous homeowner had the lines installed, they are most likely private. When using rental equipment that lifts you off the ground, always wear your safety harness. It’s a simple step that helps keep you safe if you lose your footing. Do not use a scissor or boom lift (or any other piece of equipment) for a job it was not designed for. Before starting a job, account for external conditions, such as wind. High winds could push you too close to or into a power line, and you could be seriously injured or electrocuted. Starting a project can be exciting, but don’t just jump in. Instead, read and review the operating instructions first and take the time to familiarize yourself with the equipment. For example, learn how to use the controls close to the ground before using them at a higher elevation. Don’t ignore the specifications for each piece of equipment, such as maximum platform capacity. When you are elevated, keep both feet on the platform at all times and use appropriate boots or shoes that have slip-resistant soles. Make sure your shoes or boots are not oily, muddy or greasy.